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Long known as “The King of Cheeses”, blue Stilton is one a handful
of British cheeses granted the status of a “protected designation
origin” (PDO) by the European Commission. Only cheese produced in
the three counties of Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire and
made according to a strict code may be called Stilton. There are just
six dairies licensed to make Stilton. They are subject to regular audit
by an independent inspection agency accredited to European Standard EN
45011.
To be called Stilton, each cheese must:
•Be made only in the three counties from local milk which is
pasteurized before use
•Be made only in a traditional cylindrical shape
•Be allowed to form its own crust or coat
•Be un-pressed
•Have delicate blue veins radiating from the centre
•Have a taste profile typical of Stilton.
How did it get its name?
Stilton is still made in much the same way as it was when Daniel Defoe,
writing in his “Tour through England & Wales” in 1727, remarked
that he “...passed through Stilton, a town famous for cheese."
And yet, Stilton was never made in the town of Stilton!
Stilton is situated about 80 miles north of London on the old Great North
Road. In the 18th century, the town was a staging post for coaches travelling
from London to York. Horses would be changed and travellers served light
refreshments at one of the hostelries in the town. Cooper Thornhill, an
East Midlands entrepreneur, was landlord at the famous Bell Inn and it
was he who introduced these travellers to a soft, creamy, blue veined
cheese which subsequently took its name from the town. Thornhill had brought
the cheese from a farmer’s wife by the name of Frances Pawlett who
lived near Melton Mowbray.
The rest, they say, is history!
How is Stilton made?
Early each morning fresh pasteurized milk is fed into an open vat to which
acid forming bacteria (starter cultures), a milk clotting agent (such
as rennet) and “penicillium roqueforti” (blue mould spores)
are added. Once the curds have formed, the whey is removed and the curds
allowed to drain overnight. The following morning, the curd is then cut
into blocks to allow further drainage before being milled and salted.
Each cheese requires about 24 lb (11 kgs) of salted curd that is fed into
cylindrical moulds. The moulds are then placed on boards and turned daily
to allow natural drainage for 5 or 6 days. This ensures an even distribution
of moisture throughout the cheese so that, as the cheese is never pressed,
it creates the flaky, open texture required for the important blueing
stage. After 5 or 6 days, the cylinders are removed and the coat of each
cheese is sealed by smoothing or wrapping to prevent any air entering
the inside of the cheese. The cheese is then transferred to the store
where temperature and humidity are carefully controlled. Each cheese is
turned regularly during this ripening period. At about 6 weeks, the cheese
is forming the traditional Stilton crust and it is then ready for piercing
with stainless steel needles. This allows air to enter the body of the
cheese and create the magical blue veins associated with Stilton.
At about 9 weeks of age, by which time each cheese now weighs about 17
lbs (8kgs), the cheese is ready to be sold. But before this happens every
cheese must be graded using a cheese iron. The iron is used to bore into
the cheese and extract a plug of cheese. By visual inspection and by smell
the grader can determine whether the cheese is up to the mark and able
to be sold as Stilton. Cheese that is not up to the mark will be sold
as “blue cheese.”
At this age, Stilton is still quite crumbly and has a slightly acidic
taste. Some customers prefer a more mature cheese and after a further
5 or 6 weeks it will have a smoother, almost buttery texture, with a more
rounded mellow flavor.
The Stilton Cheesemakers' Association (SCMA)
The SCMA was formed in 1936 to represent the interests of the Stilton
manufacturers and to raise standards. Today the SCMA has those same objectives
but is also responsible for:
•Promoting Stilton world-wide
•Managing the trade marks; and
•Ensuring that standards are maintained at all licensed dairies.
The SCMA was granted a certification trademark for Stilton in 1966 and
is still the only British cheese so accredited. This meant that the good
name of Stilton was protected and that imitations produced other than
in the three counties of Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Nottinghamshire
could not be sold under the Stilton brand.
In 1996, the SCMA succeeded in achieving “Protected Designation of
origin” status for Blue Stilton from the European Commission. Whereas
certification trademarks had to be separately applied for in each EU country,
the PDO effectively gave Stilton protection from imitation across the
whole of the EU. In addition, over the years, the SCMA has been granted
(or is in the process of being granted) certification trademarks for Stilton
in many non-EU countries including the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand
and South Africa.
The SCMA is responsible with the relevant government authorities for ensuring
correct use of the Stilton name and in recent years action been taken
against traders, manufacturers and retailers in the UK and elsewhere who
have attempted to pass off ineligible cheese as Stilton.
Facts and Figures
•There are just 7 dairies in the world licensed to make Blue
Stilton cheese
•Stilton is a “protected name” cheese and by law can
only be made in the three counties of Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire
•It takes 136 pints milk (78 litres) to make one 17 lb (8kg) Stilton
cheese
•Stilton takes its name from the village of the same name in Cambridgeshire
although the cheese has never been made there
•Over 1 million Stilton cheeses are made each year
•More than 10% of output is exported to some 40 countries world-wide
•Every cheese is graded before leaving the dairy to ensure only
cheese of the highest quality is marketed under the Stilton name
•White Stilton is also a protected name cheese and is made in a
similar way to its blue cousin - except that no mould spores are added
and the cheese would be sold at about 4 weeks of age. It is a crumbly,
creamy, open textures cheese and is now extensively used as a base for
blending with apricot, ginger and citrus or vine fruits to create unique
dessert cheeses.
Using Blue Stilton
•Blue Stilton is a versatile and easy to use ingredient in a
variety of starters and main courses - a little goes a long way. For
Stilton Recipe ideas visit our recipe section.
•Like all good cheeses Blue Stilton is best served at room temperature
(20 degrees C or 68 degrees F)
•Blue Stilton is a must for any cheese board - serve with crackers
or traditional plum loaf
•Unlike most cheeses, Blue Stilton may be frozen. Wrap in several
layers of cling film and a layer of foil and keep in freezer for up
to 3 months. Defrost overnight in the fridge and allow to reach room
temperature before serving.
•Blue Stilton goes well with any wine -- simply experiment.
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